Thursday, 4 December 2014

|| Final Evaluation ||

Overall, this project has gone very well for me. However, I have faced some difficulties when it comes to organising practise sessions with Toby who was one of my partners, as he was not involved in trying to understand my design and I did not have a chance to adapt it to his abilities. He did not attend his make up assessment therefore my design had to be done by me on a model. I feel like that has made me a lot more prepared for any last minute changes. I have learned a lot about the history of make-up and that allowed me to design my own contemporary version. The process was not easy, because of the amount of work and research that it involved but it has provided me with a lot of information about the history of England as well as ways of applying different mixtures onto the skin, which I found incredibly fascinating. The assessment itself was very stressful as I did not know what to expect, but once I started it was absolutely fine and I knew exactly what I was doing. Emma provided me with step by step instructions and being able to practise a lot beforehand was extremely helpful. I felt like I understood the design and the order in which I had to complete it. One thing I found hard was the research part of this assignment because I did not quite knew where to look for the information and how to reference it properly.

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Monday, 24 November 2014

|| Blocking out the eyebrows- Technique + Partner's Design ||

There is two ways of doing this- but only one I prefer! However, I have decided to practise both because each of them have pros and cons. 

First method you could use is a Pritt stick. 


Using a spatula I have scrubbed off a bit of the glue onto my hand and then put it against the hair onto the eyebrow. Then, I did the same thing but in the direction that the hair actually grows in to remove the texture of the eyebrow. I made sure I pressed quite hard on the eyebrow while putting the glue on to make sure it sticks to the skin. The only downside to this method is that it dries really quickly, which makes it a bit hard to work with! However, I have removed the glue from around the eyebrow by using a wet cotton bud, which worked perfectly. 







Image source:
http://www.wilko.com/content/ebiz/wilkinsonplus/invt/0078274/0078274_l.jpg

Another method is Soap.

Soap was very easy to work with. I also used a spatula with this method, scrubbed a bit of the soap which I have placed in the water first, and put it onto my hand. Then using an angled brush I have rubbed the soap into the eyebrow. Then, I pressed onto the eyebrow quite firmly which created a very smooth effect. I very like this method, however, it can get quite messy!





Image source:
http://www.examiner.com/images/blog/wysiwyg/image/bar_soap.jpg

These are the photos of my practise session:



It was quite hard to make the colour of the eyebrows disappear as they are black, however, there was no texture of the brows left, and they were smooth. It is very important if you are using a skin coloured base to sponge on a rosy coloured supra colour or an eyeshadow onto the brow as that will remove the black colour of the brow, which I think I still need to work on!

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This is Emma's design for the look. I really like how she changed and adapted it to make it contemporary. The ombre lips combined with white bottom eyelashes create a very modern interesting Elizabethan make up that I am very excited to create!


Tuesday, 18 November 2014

|| Tudor cosmetics ||



Shakespeare's idea of beauty:

"My mistress' eyes are nothing like the sun
Coral is far more fair then her lips fair
If snow be white, why then, her breast is dun,
If hair be wires, black wires grow on her head.
I have seen roses damasked, red and white,
But no such roses see I in her cheeks..."


Picture source: http://www.mylearning.org/learning/the-painted-lady-tudor-portraits-at-the-ferens-/face%20L.jpg


This is a very interesting subject to me and I have researched it even further to find out even more and learn things that I have not yet learnt. I have read a book "Cosmetics in Shakespearean and Renaissance Drama" by Farah Karim- Cooper and thought to share some of the quotes of it on here, as they are very informative... 


"For centuries cosmetics have offered the promise of perfection. Paints and powders, brushes and pencils are the artistic tools with which woman can re-create the self. Yet historically, cosmetics have been perceived as mere ornament, secondary, trivial, even deceptive. The subject of beautification, however, was an important discourse within the dramatic, social and literary worlds of early modern England. Domestically, kitchens were actively engineering the cosmetics that would be on display in the public sphere as well as on the stage.

Women ‘goe up and downe whited and sised over with paintings laied one upon another, in such sort: that a man might easily cut off a curd of cheese-cake from either of their cheeks’.

Though satirical and intentionally humorous, this colourful excerpt from Thomas Tuke's anti-cosmetic tract betrays an anxiety about woman's fundamental lack of readability. Tuke reveals an implicit distrust of artifice. To understand the relationship between cosmetic drama and early modern society, it is necessary to get to grips with the cultural reception of beautification found within the non-dramatic writing of the period. I want to suggest that from a wide range of early modern texts, what we see emerging is the formation of a culture of cosmetics that found its visual footing on the stage.

In the oppositional texts there are three primary objections to cosmetics: the belief that alteration of the body is a crime against God; the ethnocentric fear of foreign ingredients and commodities of a cosmetic nature; and the necromantic effect of face paint, which suggested not only the physical unreliability, but also the poisonous and contaminative nature of women and even art. Anti-cosmetic diatribes unearth a deeply rooted fear not just of cosmetic paint and its potential toxicity, but rather of what it signifies: gender, theatricality, race and the performative nature of political power." I have also researched an internet source (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/makeup.htmlwhich helped me to find out more about the techniques that were used in those times. 

"Pale skin was a sign of nobility, wealth, and (for women) delicacy, and was sought after by many. In a time when skin problems and the pox were commonplace, sunscreen unheard of, and skin creams and ointments out of reach for all but the well-off, smooth, unblemished and pale skin was a rarity.
This pale skin could be achieved by a number of means, the most popular being ceruse, a mixture of white lead and vinegar that was favored by the nobility and by those who could afford it. This white foundation was applied to the neck and bosom as well. 

Once an ideal whiteness was achieved-sometimes complete with false veins traced onto the skin-coloring was applied. Facepaint, generally referred to in period as fucus, came in a variety of reds and was used mainly upon the cheeks and lips. 

Of course, such heavy and often poisonous make-up caused serious skin damage. Remedies for spots, blemishes, acne and freckles ranged from the application of lemon-juice or rosewater to dubious concoctions of mercury, alum, honey and eggshells. Indeed, washing one's face with mercury was a common period "facial peel" used to make a woman's skin soft and fresh. Ass's milk was another substance favored by the nobility, and mentioned as an ingredient in baths and washes.

Women would use drops of belladona in their eyes to achieve that bright sparkle, and outline them with kohl (powdered antimony) to enhance their size or make them appear more wide set. Plucked eyebrows were de rigeur for a court lady, as was a high brow. A high hairline had been for centuries a sign of the aristocracy.Women would pluck their brow hair back an inch, or even more, to create a fashionably high forehead."

II Mine and Emma's discussion & images II

Me being the make up artist and Emma being the designer, decided to record us talking about the design and what we have changed, why we decided to change it and all of the other things we came across while working together.

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Here are some images of the practise that me and Emma did:


There was a few things we had to adapt due to the circumstances of the assesment. For instance, the brows. If we decided to block them out, we counted that we would only have about 30 minutes to achieve the whole, complited make up look. This would not be enough time to achieve the quality of the make up we are aiming for. Therefore, we went for a more emphasised brow that in Emma's opinion compliments the whole look very well. 

Tuesday, 11 November 2014

|| My Contemporary Make Up Design Influences ||

This is a photo from the Magnum campaign done by Karla Powell. I think the lace stickers have added edge to this pretty simple make up, and that is what I want to achieve. Elizabethan make up was quite simple and not very outgoing, using this kind of stickers would make my make up stand out more. 














Picture Source 1: 
http://media-cacheak0.pinimg.com/236x/0e/9b/45/0e9b45312aa487
7294d0f5265c0761a5.jpg

 Picture Source 2: http://40.media.tumblr.com/21ca480c95e4e78ac62d464888d2643f/tumblr_n1d0o0zY5c1qgqgyxo2_1280.jpg


This is a winger eye liner which I would also like to include in one of my designs. Very simple, but effective. I would use white eyeliner to keep the eyes pale Elizabethan.


Picture Source: http://i39.tinypic.com/2n67nu9.jpg










These two toned lips are still the 'new thing' and I have seen them at a lot of fashion shows which have inspired me to include them in my final designs. I think it is an effective technique of making the lips look classy but original and "contemporary at the same time!


Picture Source: 
http://www.chasingelixir.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Two-Tone-Lips-Group.jpg







|| Marilyn Monroe - the new Elizabethan ||

Image Ref:http://upload.wikimedia.org/
wikipedia/sq/thumb/e/ef/Marilynmonroe.jpg/
300px-Marilynmonroe.jpg
Marilyn Monroe. There is many things that made her become a symbol- her looks, her attitude and her actions. 

This post is going to be quite personal because to me, there won't be another Marilyn.There is a lot of aspects that if you look at them in detail, you'll notice similarities between Monroe and Elizabeth. The make up- always on point, and always the same. This has became Marilyn's brand. We still hear today people say "that Marilyn Monroe look''. If you think Elizabeth- you also think pale skin, red lips, rosy cheeks. That continuity when it comes to their image shown by the specific type of make up... 

Marilyn had a complicated private life, which included an affair with both John and Robert Kennedy. This made everyone speculate and talk about. If you think about the situation with Elizabeth, a similar thing happened with her and Robert Dudley, her childhood friend that she fell in love with- but no one really knew what was going on behind closed doors. 

Both Elizabeth and Marilyn grew up with out one of their parents. Marilyn spent most of her childhood in foster homes, as her mother was mentally not stable and financially unable to take care of her and her father was stated to be Martin Edward Mortensen. Elizabeth on the other side, still grew up around her family, even though her mother was executed on the 19th May 1536. Her father Henry VIII died 11 years later due to his obesity.

The photo above represents Marilyn very well. She was so famous and so 'important' in the media industry, yet she still managed to keep that image of a next door girl. The photograph that I decided to use however, shows her in a different light. A more expensive one. She is looking away...This could mean she is too good to look at you. Or me. Her mouth is slightly open. This shows how sexual she as a woman was... It symbolises the type of a person she was known to be- very feminine and sexy. Unlike most of Elizabeth's portraits, this photo doesn't have anything in the background... which I think is the modern way of making the audience focus on the talent instead of anything else. This emphasised the fact of how much they wanted us to think she was something special, "the one and only". She is also wearing fur which is still a symbol for rich people. It is something that is meant to come from animals and is meant to be 'real'...I think that is one of the messages behind this photo- they wanted us to think she was rich BUT real at the same time. She was Marilyn Monroe. 


Monday, 10 November 2014

|| Contemporary Elizabethan Make Up Designs ||

I have started to design my own make up looks for the Elizabethan project.

This is my first face chart. I decided to make it contemporary by placing some lace stickers on the eyebrows. However, I would use white ones to represent the Elizabethan "non existent" eyebrow look. The lips would be of a nude colour combined with a pale shade of skin foundation. (Not white base!) This is to make the look more contemporary then the usual Elizabethan base, which was almost white. I would also make the skin glowy to give it that magazine, healthy/radiant look. 


This is an upgraded version of the first face chart. I swapped the eyeliner for a white one to suit the traditional pale eyes look. I decided to paint the lips in two different shades of red. This is something I have seen in a lot of fashion shows, and that's where my inspiration for that came from. 















Picture from: http://www.fuse.com.ng/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/ombre-lips2.jpg
I have still left the rosy cheeks to leave that Elizabethan feel to the make up.


I like the lace idea because I think it is very modern and brings that sense of importance when it comes to textures and fabrics, which were very important in the Elizabethan times as they symbolised class. 

In order to make my designs related to my contemporary portrait, I have used the winged eye liner. My portrait showed Katy Perry, for whom an eyeliner is a must have and has been a part of many of her looks. I have found a few photographs presenting her wearing it, for example:


Pictures taken from:
http://weheartit.com/entry/group/3150452
http://eyemakeuptips.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Katy-Perry-Eye-Makeup2.jpg
http://wallpaperscraft.com/image/2113/1024x1024.jpg
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVMXlSBXqvoPAGF2e5HuJDPOrUEsiahJ96VAje8BK6WGedNBC0S0Kq95qMTEgwXbtFpLYVkNxRt9K7cYlxBlLvGfJT_6FhgetBMxMLiPpBFhQY2SRhkfQR9ZsU9MyhgT3wsy1jJjnbAnc_/s1600/Katy_Perry_-_Thinking_of_You_promoshoot_037.jpg


This is another one of my ideas for my Elizabethan contemporary look. I have left the eyebrows white, however I have emphasised the bottom of the eyes to make them more contemporary. I made the lips ombré which is a very popular lip technique now, this I think would make it very modern and contemporary which is the look im going for.













This eye make up look was inspired by the swan.
However, I have only done it on the bottom half of the eye. This was in order to still remain that Elizabethan feel to the make up and make it look like it is still a pale looking eye.


Picture from: http://pullquotesandexcerpts.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/1531.jpg


This is my last design. Here I went for the half/half look ... I made the left eye look very nude/pale as well as the eyebrows, which made them look Elizabethan. I also painted the lips red but then blended them into white on the other side of the face. I have also made the other eyebrow red to match the lips and create a concept. I have also used eyeliner which is quite contemporary still, even though it originated from the Egyptians.












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My practise of my final make up design:

This is the sort of make up I want to do. I have made the neck very pale to emphasise the face, and make it look really tanned (contemporary). However, I have still kept the rosy cheeks and red and orange lips, which do give off this Elizabethan feel. I have painted the eyebrows white and will stick lace stickers onto them to create this modern feel to the make up. 

These are the lips. I have made them two toned because it is something I have seen in fashion shows, and it really intrigued me cause it makes the lip look unique and quite funky!
These are the stickers I will use. They are by Phyllis Cohen. Initially, I wanted to use white ones, however there is no way of painting them as they are very fragile and I feel like they would lose their shape, and there was no option when it came to colour on the website. I had to adapt my idea, and therefore decided to use white eyeliner on the eyelid to balance out the black on the eyes.