|| Drawing ||

Drawing is very important when it comes to doing make up and actually applying it onto the face. Sometimes you have to do a straight line... or two. Therefore I thought it would be good to practise! 

I drew parallel lines, which are quite important when doing make up such as a sugar skull for example. (Make ups in which symmetry is very important). I started off practising simple shapes such as circles, triangles and squares. 

Next, I moved onto creating shadows and seeing where they should be for the drawings to look realistic. This was quite tricky as I realised that you also have to think about the base for the shapes, otherwise they will look like they are levitating! 

After that, I decided to experiment with the pencils that I had- 6B,HB2 and HB. I wanted to see how intense they were and what kind of shading etc. I could use them for. 

Then, I moved onto drawing chiaroscuro objects. Here, I had to focus on the light and dark parts of whatever I was drawing. 

I really enjoyed doing this because I feel like it allowed me to learn even more about shadows and highlights, which is a useful knowledge when it comes to for example- contouring the face. 

                                             

This is my drawing of a still life- a bottle, a cup, garlic and a bowl on a table. I thought it was a very classic one and perfect for a first drawing of still life objects. 

I did not use any shading/shading techniques, only what I have practised in my seminar which was quite challenging because I am not used to this specific technique. However, I very much enjoyed sketching this and really got into it!:) I found dealing with shapes intriguing and am happy with my outcomes, although I will practise a lot more. YOU CAN ALWAYS GET EVEN BETTER. :)

|| Removing The Make Up ||

The cleansing part is a very important part of creating a look as it sets a base for it. A dry skin needs something that will moisturise it and an oily skin something that will mattify it. Also, when you are working at a fast pace e.g. fashion shows, you'll need something that will be effective but also quick to use. I have found this Urban Decay Meltdown Make-Up Remover, £18.

This product is very good for taking off even the long lasting make up, and it is also very good for your skin. It is for all skin types which is a big plus! Sea Fan Extract combats inflammation, while Beta Carotene (a source of Vitamin A) and Gatuline In-Tense (harvested from the South African Rain Forest Peekabo Plant) revitalize collagen production. Cranberry and Raspberry Seed Oils, along with Kukui Nut and Oat Oil, moisturize and replenish. The 2.5 oz. squeeze tube is easy to use, as well as small enough to take when travelling.

Photo and product info source: http://www.houseoffraser.co.uk/Urban+Decay+Meltdown+Make-Up+Remover/153358186,default,pd.html

- Clinique -

I have also looked at some Clinique products as they are known for being very close to professional products. 

Take The Day Off Makeup Remover For Lids,Eyes & Lips 

This is a make up remover with a very unique, two-way formula that loosens the grip, then speeds the departure of the most persistent, eye makeups, mascara and lipsticks. It is ophthalmologist tested as well as being suitable for contact lens wearers. This is a very big and important factor when it comes to working with clients because it would be uncomfortable for the people that you work with to have to take their contact lenses out every time you want to cleanse their face. Price: £17

Photo and product info: http://www.clinique.co.uk/product/1673/5380/Skin-Care/CleansersMakeup-Removers/Take-The-Day-Off-Makeup-Remover-For-Lids-Lashes-Lips

Dramatically Different Moisturising Gel 

Dramatically Different Moisturising Gel is oil-free and non-comedogenic. It gives you the lightweight hydration without oiliness so your skin feels smoother, softer and more comfortable. This would be very good for photo shoots as it is not as oily and would not affect the make up. 

It is available in 125ml bottle with a pump or 50ml tube. Price: £30

Photo and product info: http://www.clinique.co.uk/product/12794/5047/3--step/Combination-Oily-Type-3/Dramatically-Different-Moisturizing-Gel/with-pump--Combination-to-Oily-Skin-Types

|| First Celebrity MUA - Kevin Aucoin ||

"In 1983, makeup artist Kevyn Aucoin took a Greyhound bus from his hometown of Lafayette, Louisiana, to New York City with his portfolio under his arm, and no formal work or credits on his resume. After a chance meeting at Vogue, Kevyn's fate in the industry was sealed; within months he was working for Steven Meisel on the set of high fashion shoots and backstage at couture shows. " - www.kevinaucoin.com 

By the end of a decade, Kevyn had become a makeup legend; painting and sculpting the faces of magazine cover models and celebrities including Cher, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Janet Jackson, revealing true timeless beauty in a way no one had before or since. Despite his untimely passing in 2002, Kevyn Aucoin's legacy lives on through his unrivaled, time-tested techniques, his New York Times best-selling books The Art of Makeup, Making Faces, and Face Forward, and the Kevyn Aucoin Beauty brand he founded and launched in 2001. Through his life's work, Kevyn Aucoin set the standard for makeup artistry, recognized today as the makeup artist that continues to inspire the world of beauty.

Source: www.kevinaucoin.com 

Kevin has been an inspiration for many. The famous 'Kim Kardashian face contour' was based on Kevin's idea and vision for it,which was to use concealers and foundations to sculpt the face: 

|| Ellis Faas ||

A photo of Ellis Faas

I have watched a short clip/video "Identity Revealed" (which can be found at http://vimeo.com/109956784) by Ellis Faas who is said to be one of the most influential make up artists of her time. This has inspired me to look at her as a person more and also her work which is very much appreciated in the industry. 

Screen shot of the film

"Ellis’ work has been published on the covers of the world’s best-known fashion magazines. Additionally, Ellis has worked for make-up brands, such as Clinique, Lancôme and MAC Cosmetics – and she was asked by L'Oréal to create a make-up line for their skin care brand, Biotherm. After the contract with L’Oréal ended in 2007, the way was paved for her to create her own brand: ELLIS FAAS." - Ellis' Official Website 

While watching the film I felt inspired more and more with every second. Every detail did not feel like a detail, it was very noticeable and played a big part in the whole make up look. You could tell it was there for a reason. This is something I want to do while creating my Elizabethan look- I don't want anything to be coincidental. I like how there is a theme of just dark skin tone people being a part of it and then towards the end of the film, we see a white person having a black string/rope on their face wrapped all around it. This reflected what the film was initially about- masks. Ellis herself asks "Can one truly change one's identity, or is it merely a temporary transformation? And who or what defines someone's true identity? Is it the mask, is it the human being behind the mask, or maybe even the creator of the mask?". This film in my opinion has not revealed the answer to these questions but has definitely emphasises the meaning of it. All the masks were over the top, bright, big, deformed and very fake looking. I like how all the make up looks were just emphasising the face features, but in a very bold way. This created a whole new look which looked like a very interesting mask. For example this look: 

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WHO USES THE PRODUCTS ?

I have found a video of the very famous PixiWoo using Faas' products while also doing a tutorial. She  very clearly explained what the products are like and showed how the look on the skin, which was very helpful while finding out about Ellis' make up! She talked about the textures, colours and the packaging. 

Another video that intrigued me was recorded by a Make Up Artist called Wayne who is also very famous and appreciated on YouTube. He very much recommended the Skin Foundation which he said to be amazing! 

     

                                       

|| The Seven Photographs That Changed Fashion ||

I have watched 'The Seven Photographs That Changed Fashion' and decided to look at one of the photographs in more detail.

Helmut Newton, Yves Saint Laurent, Rue Aubriot, Vogue France, 1975, Paris

Helmut was a German- Australian photographer known for presenting women in another light. Instead of making them overly feminine, he used to add a masculine feel to them. This once pushed the feminists to protesting one of his exhibits by throwing paint at his photographs. He even said '"In my vocabulary ART is a dirty word''. This made him stand out and created his own style, because he simply had no limits or morals when it came to photography. 

The feel of this photograph is very dark, which just emphasises the masculinity. It also feels very rough as well as classy because of the buildings. The lights are on, but there is no one there which creates the intimate side to this photograph.  

I did some research and came across another- contemporary version of this photograph for the same company. 

Cara Delevingne for YSL Baby Doll Mascara, 2013

This photo has definitely got a similar feel to the photo above. It shows the connection that the two women in it have and that it is quite intimate. One woman is clearly more masculine then the other, and of course one of them is naked. Also the hair in both photos is almost the same, a classy low bun, with a side parting. 

|| Analysis of an Elizabethan portrait ||

Portrait of a Noblewoman
British Painter, ca. 1600
Oil on wood

44 1/2 x 34 3/4 in. (113 x 88.3 cm)
Gift of J. Pierpont Morgan, 1911 (11.149.1)

I have decided to look at this particular portrait because of the outfit and how much it involves and how many pieces of it- mean a lot of things. Near the collar we can see the "Tudor Rose and was displayed as a mark of recognition by an individual or family and worn as a symbol of loyalty. The emblem became part of the British tradition. The Tudor Rose Badge is still evident on the uniforms of the Yeomen Warders at the Tower of London."-http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-rose.htm

There is also lots of pearls around the neck and the wrists which symbolise wealth, nobility and possibly even virginity. The Noblewoman is also holding a bouquet made out of feathers. This type of accessory was only used by upper or noble class Elizabethan ladies. 

"Elizabethan women and men were not allowed to wear whatever color of clothes that they liked. It did not matter how wealthy they were - the color, fabric and material of their clothes were dictated by their rank, status or position and this was enforced by English Law. These laws about the color of clothes that men and women were allowed to wear in the Elizabethan era were called Sumptuary Laws. They were designed to limit the expenditure of people on clothes - and of course to maintain the social structure of the Elizabethan Class system." -http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/meaning-colors.htm

We can see a bit of crimson fabric hanging down in the background, which shows how wealthy the woman in the portrait is, as red was one of the most expensive colours. She can have the most expensive fabric, and use it as a curtain.

Expensive kermes and later cochineal dye was used to produce the colour crimson. One of the Sumptuary Laws stated that only the Royalty, Nobility and members of the council are allowed to wear this colour. 

|| Analysis of contemporary portrait ||

This portrait shows Katy Perry in an advert advertising her fragrance Killer Queen. Wigs like this used to symbolise nobility and wealth. The English expression "big wig" (meaning an important, wealthy person) comes from the fact that wigs were only for the very rich. Also, she is standing on bright silky fabric. Dyed materials would fade fairly quickly if it wasn't mixed with a mordant, and bolder shades required either longer dyeing times or more expensive dyes. Thus, fabrics of the brightest and richest colours cost more and were therefore most often found on nobility and the very rich. She is wearing cerise which was one of the more expensive fabric to make. The fabrics are on the floor which could suggest she is able to walk on money, because she has that much of it. This portrait reminds me of Elizabeth because of the colour scheme when it comes to Katy Perry's outfit. She is wearing a white powdered wig, red dress and black tights. All of them colours were Elizabeth's favoured and were the ones she mostly wore in her portraits. Her cheeks were very much emphasised as well as the red lips. There is also a lot of gold in this portrait which is associated with money. 

|| Colour Theory & (Face) Charts ||

The colour wheel

In this post I will talk about The colour theory as it was mentioned in the lesson, and I felt quite intrigued.

"Understanding and feeling the colour" 

Being able to use colors consciously and harmoniously can help you create spectacular results. 

The colour wheel is very helpful while combining colours. The first colour when was designed by Sir Isaac Newton in 1666. 

There are a number of colour combinations that are said to look best together. These are called colour harmonies and they consist of 2 (or more) colours with a fixed relation in the colour wheel. 

There are three types of colour- primary, secondary and tertiary. The primary colours are known to be blue, red and yellow. The three secondary colours (which are green,orange and purple) are made by mixing two primary colours. There is six tertiary colours and they are created by mixing primary AND secondary colours. 

There are also warm and cool colours (the diagram above presents that well). Warm colours are more energetic whereas cool colours tend to give an impression of calm. White, black and grey are considered to be neutral colours. 

Complementary Colour Scheme 

Colours that are opposite each other are considered as complementary colours. For example as the diagram shows, it could be red and green. The high contrast of complementary colours creates a vibrant look especially when used at full saturation.

Analogous Colour Scheme 

Analogous color schemes use colors that are next to each other on the color wheel. They usually match well and create serene and comfortable designs.

Analogous color schemes are often found in nature and are harmonious and pleasing to the eye.

Triadic color scheme 


A triadic color scheme uses colors that are evenly spaced around the color wheel.
Saturation defines a range from pure color (100%) to gray (0%) at a constant lightness level. A pure color is fully saturated. 
Hue defines pure color in terms of "green", "red" or "magenta". Hue also defines mixtures of two pure colors like "red-yellow"
Source: http://www.workwithcolor.com/color-properties-definitions-0101.htm

Triadic color schemes tend to be quite vibrant, even if you use pale or unsaturated versions of your hues.

Source: http://www.tigercolor.com/color-lab/color-theory/color-theory-intro.htm


Attributes that define colour:

Lightness defines a range from dark (0%) to fully illuminated (100%). Any original hue has the average lightness level of 50%. 


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These are some of the looks that I have created after learning about the colour theory. 

This is an Achromatic look. I decided to make this look a bit different while applying it onto my model. I did not apply any of the eyeliner which I did while doing my face chart. This is because I realised that it would be too much of a 'bold' look because of the lips which are also black.

This is a complementary look. I have used pink and reds, however the photos do not reflect the shades very well. In the photo on the right, the model has red ombre lips, pink cheekbones and a smokey pink eye shadows on the eyes. Also, I have put some contour on the nose. With this make up, I tried to emphasise all the face features in a very gentle way. I did not 100% copy the face chart because while applying the make up, I did realise that the make up I wanted to do, would be too much with pink eyebrows. Especially, when my vision for it was for it to be gentle and still quite feminine. 

The photo on the right shows more of an artistic approach that I took after creating the complementary look. The make up very much reminded me of a Barbie, therefore I decided to pop a blonde wig on in order to really create this fake Barbie look.

|| Film research ||

• The private lives of Elizabeth and Essex (1939)

Director: Michael Curtiz

Make Up Artist: Perc Westmore 

"This period drama looks at the affair of Queen Elizabeth and the man who would be the King of England- Robert Devereux, the Earl of Essex. Middle-aged Elizabeth, so attracted to the younger Devereux but fearful of his influence, sends him on a mission to Ireland. When Robert and his troops return- Devereux demands to share the throne. Elizabeth does everything to protect it. "

Bette as Queen Elizabeth I

Elizabeth is played by Bette Davis who has been nicknamed 'The first lady of film'. In 1935, she received an Oscar for her role in Dangerous (1935) as Joyce Heath. 

We can see that Davis treated this role very seriously as she allowed the make up artists  to shave her hairline off, to create the effect of a higher forehead. To emphasise the look, she got her eyebrows bleached also. This was a big deal as she was known for her amazing, big eyes. Another thing that is also present is the fact that she is wearing a red hair wig, which completes the Elizabethan look and makes it very authentic. Also, the way she is posing and showing her hands a lot. Elizabeth used to love her hands and Bette definitely was able to show that well.  

Source: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0031826/

• Elizabeth (1997)

Director: Shekhar Kapur 

Make Up Artist: Anita Burger 

Make Up Designer: Jenny Shircore 

*won an Oscar for make up in Elizabeth!

This film is about the early years of the reign of Elizabeth I and her difficult task of learning what is necessary to be a Queen. 

The main character is played by Cate Blanchett, who looked like the ideal Elizabethan beauty in a very natural way. The hair was still red, but was kept looking very natural... It was usually down which was meant to signify purity. The eyebrows were of course bleached to lengthen the forehead. As the film went on, we started seeing more hairstyles which reflects what has really happened in Elizabeth's life as she had pox and her hair simply fell out. Then, she began wearing wigs. This became a new trend and wigs came into fashion. 

Source: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0127536/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1

• Fire Over England (1937)

Director: William K. Howard
Make Up artist: 

"Queen Elizabeth is running this show. The men in her court should be thinking about how to add to the glory of the Elizabethan Age and how to foil those pesky Spanish who got far too much influence in England when her older sister Mary was on the throne after their father Henry VIII was succeeded by their sickly half brother. Elizabeth thinks Michael Ingolby can do great things. Michael is mostly thinking about one of Elizabeth's ladies in waiting, Cynthia. Soon his mind is on survival when Elizabeth sends him on a voyage to Spain."

http://www.themakeupgallery.info/
images/racial/afro/saratoga1.jpg

The main character here is played by Flora Robson who was named the shining ornament of the 30's and 40's silver screen. 

Although not a huge beauty herself, she did represent the idea of Elizabethan beauty well in my opinion. She had all of the attributes that Queen Elizabeth had. The red haired wig, high forehead and lots of jewellery. However, I have noticed that while watching this film, she acted a lot more 'tougher' then all of the other actresses which I have talked about above. This gave me a different vision of Elizabeth, but maybe that is the way she was? Unbreakable, confident and strict. 

Source: http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0733460/bio?ref_=nm_ov_bio_sm

• The Virgin Queen (1955) 

Director: Henry Koster 

Make Up Artist: Perc Westmore 

"Sir Walter Raleigh gains audience with Queen Elizabeth I and soon wins her over to his way of thinking. He wants ships to sail and make a name for England. A young ward of the court, Beth Throgmorton, is strongly attracted to Raleigh and returns the attraction. But soon the Queen shows her desires and he bends in order to achieve his goal of ships. But still he loves Beth."

The main character in this film, is played by Bette Davis (who also played Elizabeth in The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex). However, this film was a lot more effective as Bette was a lot older naturally while shooting. Therefore the authenticity of this film went up, and I definitely found it more real in a way.  

Source: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0048791/?ref_=ttfc_fc_tt

|| The story of Westmores... ||

http://a.scpr.org/i/6a81fd025ec14cce475b4b11524c86b9/
55547-eight.jpg

The Westmores family is very well known for creating Hollywood beauty in the faces of famous actresses such as Bette Davis, Elizabeth Taylor, Sandra Dee and Farrah Fawcett. They have also created Mr Hyde. 

George Westmore was a hairstylist and wigmaker from England who has opened a salon in Hollywood at a time when actors did their own hair and make up. However, the make up was not their main focus at the time. 

Marvin, George's grandon stated:“ A lot of his customers in the salon were 'ladies of the evening' and he traded make-up lessons for hairstyling services,  and that’s how he learned to do beauty make-up”. 

Westmore’s six sons - Monte, Ern, Perc, Wally, Frank, and Bud - followed him into the craft.   They led make-up departments at other studios: Perc was the master of disguises at what would become Warner Bros, Wally was at Paramount, Ern worked at 20th Century Fox, and Bud at Universal studios.

“We actually all followed these same examples for decades and even now, you still use them when breaking down how to change the shape of a woman’s face - or a man, when developing a character,” Cabral-Ebert says.  

 Marvin Westmore says that’s what make-up artists do: help develop characters, tell stories and solve problems. 

Marvin's  brother Michael did the make-up on “Rocky,” the television series “Star Trek: The Next Generation," and won the Best Make-Up Oscar in 1986 for the movie, “Mask”. To create the “mask” he used photos of Dennis, who suffered from a bone-growth disease that deformed his skull and face and left his eyes more than three inches apart.  

“I said, ‘I need an actor with their eyes as far apart as we can get ’em.’ And then they hire Eric Stoltz whose eyes are real close together,” says Michael Westmore.  But he made a bridge that fit between the eyes  that created the illusion that they were far apart. 

Michael Westmore says over the years his family has worked in Hollywood, make-up techniques have evolved and so have the materials they use. But he says make-up artists are still part of moviemaking - even as more films use computer-generated images.

 “It hasn’t really done away with make-up,” he says.  “I mean, if they have Nicole Kidman doing a part or something, they put a nose on her.”

Source: 

*Brian, W., 2014. Oscars 2013: Westmore family continues to make-up Hollywood, one generation at a time, 2013. Available at: <http://www.scpr.org/programs/take-two/2013/02/21/30608/oscars-2013-westmore-family-continues-to-make-up-h/> [Accessed 9th October 2014] 

|| Cleansing Method ||

The diagram on the left shows the correct movements and directions in which the make up should be taken off. There are three steps in order to do so correctly.

1) CLEANSE

2) TONE

3) MOISTOURISE

(unscented-less likely to cause allergic reactions!)

DO NOT FORGET TO WASH HANDS

*While working in the eye area, it is important to use cotton buds as it is a            lot more sensitive!

*Forgetting to exfoliate the face will only double the visibility of any imperfections. It is very important to perform that treatment (if needed!) before doing any of the steps mentioned above*

I have practiced this cleansing method on a model. 

Before              After